Some Korean you know will sooner or later take you to Kyungju, the old Shilla capital. Once there you'll probably see the big sites like Pulguksa and the National Museum. These are worth the trip, but hardly the only places to visit in Kyungju. Sometime this spring or summer when you get a little stir crazy for the outdoors, why not take a little time out to explore one of Korea's loveliest cities. 

   Once you arrive in Kyungju you can get around in the ordinary ways, or you can rent bicycles next to the bus terminal. Start your adventure at Ohneung, which you can reach by taxi (under 2,000 won) or use buses 500 or502 from the terminal. Remember though that buses don't run as often as in Daegu. You'll find Ohneung inside a large stone walled enclosure (on your right if you take the bus). The entrance fee is 220 won. Inside you'll find five tombs, where theoretically the founder of the Shilla Kingdom, Bahk Haekgoseh, his wife and Shilla's second, third and fifth kings are buried. However legend has it that all five mounds contain pieces of the founder, which rained back down from the heavens seven days after his death. The grounds are very pleasant, including a shrine that was rebuilt in the year 1600. 

   When you exit Ohneung head for the large four-way intersection you can see ahead and to the left. Pass straight through the intersection and a fifteen-minute amble past rice fields later you'll arrive in the village of Posuk. Set back from the main drag and on your left you'll see a large parking lot. You can begin hiking Namsan from a trailhead here. It's a broad gently sloping trail, suitable for relaxed walking. Not much of a hike. 

   If you want more of a scramble, continue past Posuk to Samneung (three tombs). The trailhead at Samneung is also on your left, and you'll spy parked cars and outhouses right by the street. Once you start up either trail, only a short time later you will find yourself in the �veritable museum without walls� that is Namsan. Stone carvings, etchings, and statues are thick on the ground (and the cliffs). 
   Hungry after all that exploring? Try the whole-wheat hand made kahlguksu (knife cut noodles) in one of the many restaurants serving them down the road across the street from the Samneung trailhead. 

   There are frequent buses to Kyungju from Pusan and most other major cities. In Daegu you can take from the Sobu, Dongbu and Express terminals. The latter two will cost you 2,600 won. Buses leave every fifteen minutes from Dongbu, thirty from the Express Terminal. Sobu will cost you about 4,500 won and the buses don't run as often. 
   Happy trails.