Trains
Every day sees 31 departures on the Kyongbu line to Seoul by Saemaul, Mugungwha and the occasional Tongil, with even more laid on at weekends, but don't forget the other more exotic destinations you can head for. You can go west on the Kyongchon line to Kwangju and Mokpo (9.27 a.m. and 9.23 p.m.), while the Central line will take you through Haeundae, up the coast to Ulsan and Kyongju and on to Korea's traditional heartland through Andong and Yongju. From there, some trains go on to Seoul's eastern terminal at Chongnyangi while others head off through the valleys and mountains of Kangwondo, hitting the east coast again at Tonghae. Just before Kangnung, you can get off at the beachside station of Chongdongjin, nowadays a serious sunrise-watching resort since it provided the setting for the phenomenally popular TV series �The Hour Glass� a few years back. It's a great trip that I think everybody should make at least once, if possible in autumn. There's a departure every morning at 9.18. 
   And if you're a serious train buff, or seriously lonely, how about taking the 6.20 from Pujon Station? It makes its way into Chongnyangi just over 12 hours later, having stopped absolutely everywhere along the way. A year ago, this was still served by a desperately uncomfortable Pidulki (pigeon) train and cost next to nothing, but now it has been upgraded to a Tongil and will set you back 20,000: still a small price for all the new friendships you're sure to make.

Boats
A few years ago you could take an extremely slow boat from the Coastal Ferry Terminal to the small island of Yokchido, spend 10 minutes ashore and then start back, giving you a splendid day on the ocean wave for W400 or so. Now, slow boats have disappeared, and the only departures listed for Pusan are for Chejudo and Kojedo; if you want to get to Yokchido you must go first to Chungmu and take a ferry from there. High-speed ferries mean high prices. Fares to Changsunpo and Okpo in Kojedo are 12,450. Longer rides are seriously expensive; a round trip these days from Pohang to Ulleungdo will cost you 90,000 - almost like going abroad (which I suppose it is). 
   Talking of Ulleungdo, not a lot of people know that it was chosen, in 1948, as the site for Korea's second national ski championships. When the competitors arrived at the end, I guess, of an 8-hour sea ride, they found there was no snow, and the event was cancelled, never to be held there again.

Planes
As well as Seoul and Cheju, there's a flight a day to Kwangju, Mokpo and Kangnung, and two to Wonju, where you'll share the airport with the US military, and need a 10-minute bus ride to the baggage reclaim. Enough said.

Buses
Not mentioned at all by Dionne Warwick, buses take up well over 100 pages of Shikakp'yo. Pusan has three long-distance bus stations. The Express Terminal, a brisk 10-minute walk from Tongnae subway station, handles departures to 17 major cities, the furthest flung one being the lakeside resort of Chunchon (3 a day, 6½ hours, 18,200 or 27,300 deluxe). 
   For slightly less comfortable transport, you can use one of the inter-city terminals. The Eastern (Dongbu) terminal, across from Myongnyundong subway, serves 38 destinations; among the most scenic are Chuhwangsan and the remote temple Kuinsa, on the edge of Sobaeksan National Park; the furthest is Kojin, at the top right hand corner of the country (9½ hours, 28,500), where you can taste Korea's finest beer (it's from north of the border, which you can look over as you drink it). 
   To reach the opposite corner, make for the Western (Sobu) terminal at Sasang and board the 11.30 for Chindo, home to the annual sea-parting and non-edible dogs (6½ hours, 19,800). Chindo is one of no less than 51 places you can get to from Sasang, including Haeinsa and all the main temples of Chirisan, Taewonsa, Hwaomsa and Ssangyesa. 
   The last section of the magazine contains assorted travel information, including a guide to Korea's youth hostels, 44 at this month's count. With a few exceptions like Soraksan, they tend to be inconveniently located, and either empty or full of children or students on MT. Anyway, at a mere 3,000 won and available at all good bookstores, Shikakp'yo is a great value. As long as you can read a minimum amount of Han'gul, it provides a veritable cornucopia of information, much of it useful. 
   Don't leave home without it.